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Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks. বদিউজ্জামান ( রুবেল )
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Costing Formula (A to Z) Woven fabric

Costing Related Formula:                Date:  3.06.18
Yarn Consumption for Lycra, non-Lycra & Yarn Dye:
Essential Elements:
1.      Warp count
2.      Weft count
3.      EPI
4.      PPI
5.      Fabric Width
6.      Weight per yard. 
7.      Total Ends=EPI × Finish Width or (R.C × R.S)
8.      Reed count = EPI – (EPI × 0.22) [ Lycra]
9.      Reed count = EPI – (EPI × 0.12) [non-Lycra]
10.   Reed Space = Total Ends ÷ Reed count
11.     Total Pick = (Reed Space + 3.5) × PPI × Grey yds.
12.  Warp crimp%=22% [non-Lycra]
13.  Warp crimp%=28% [Lycra]
14.  Weft crimp%=7% [non-Lycra] 
15.  Weft crimp%=14.5% [Lycra]

 
21.  Fabric GSM = oz/yds2 × 33.91
22.  Warp Weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (Warp weight without crimp × Warp crimp %) + Warp weight without crimp
23.  Weft weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (weft weight without crimp X Weft crimp %) + Weft weight without crimp
24.   Weight for woven fabric (in gm) = Length meter × Width meter × oz./yds2 × 33.91  gm/m2

Formula for fabric costing (for Yarn Dyeing Weight):
1.      Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857
2.      Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857  
3.      weaving crimp% = {(EPI ÷ 4) + (PPI ÷ 3.46)} × Twill structure*
       = {(116 ÷4) + (56 ÷ 3.46)} × 0.75   [If, EPI=116 & PPI=56, Twill structure=0.75]
       = (29+16.18) × 0.75
       = 45 × 0.75 = 33.88-20 =13.88% (3/1 twill)

2/2 twill = 1.00
2/1 twill = 0.85
4/1 twill = 0.80 
3/1 twill = 0.75
.
Formula for Fabric costing (For Solid Dyeing Weight):
1.      Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857
2.      Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857


1.    Warp yarn è Warp অর্থাৎ টানা সুতা । কাপরের মধ্যে লম্বা ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে  Warp বা টানা সুতা বলে ।
2.    Weft yarn è Weft অর্থাৎ পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা । কাপরের মধ্যে প্রস্থ ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে Weft বা প্রস্থ সুতা বলে ।
3.    EPI è Inch per inch è প্রতি ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকবে তাকে EPI বলে ।
4.    PPI è Pick per inch è প্রতি ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা থাকবে তাকে PPI বলে ।
5.    Fabric Width è কাপর যতটুকু প্রসস্ত হবে অর্থাৎ কাপরের যতটুকু প্রস্থ হবে তাকে Fabric Width বলে ।
6.    Weight per yard è এক গজ কাপরের ওজন কতটুকু হবে তা oz/yds2 বা GSM দ্বারা প্রকাশ করা হয় ।
7.    Total Ends è একটি কাপরে মোট যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকে তাকে Total Ends বলে ।
8.    Reed è Reed হলো চিরুনীর মত দাঁত (Dent), যার ভিতর দিয়ে Size Beam এর সুতা ঢুকিয়ে Loom মেশিনে সেট করা হয় ।
9.    Reed Count è Reed এর প্রতি  2” ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো Dent থাকে তাকে  Reed Count বলে ।
10. Reed Space è Total Ends, Reed এর মধ্যে যতটুকু যায়গা দখল করে তাকে Reed space বলে।
11. Total Pick è Required fabric তৈরি করতে যতগুলো Pick লাগবে তার সমষ্টিকেই Total Picks বলে ।
12. Warp crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে টানা সুতা যে হরে সংকুচিত হয় তাকে  Warp crimp% বলে ।
13. Weft crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা যে হরে সংকুচিত হয় তাকে  Weft crimp% বলে ।
14. Warp Constant è
15. Weft Constant è


Step – 1: 

Warp yarn weight (in lbs) per yard: ( EPI X F.W /840X W.C) + Crimp% (28%) 
or,


Step – 2:

Weft yarn weight (in Lbs) per yd: {(R.S+3.5) × Grey PPI}/840 X Weft count)+ Crimp%(14.5%)
or,

Note - In teams of Lycra ----weft crimp% is always high depending on Reed count.
                         Reed count= linear density/ 2 inch


Costing Formula:

1. Total Yarn Consumption: (For S/D & Y/D)
: (Warp Consumption + weft Consumption) + Leno (0.0002)

2. Find out yarn cost per yard fabric in Taka:
·         Warp Yarn cost =warp yarn consumption x warp yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·         Weft Yarn cost = weft yarn consumption x weft yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·         Leno yarn cost = 0.0002 x Leno yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·         Total Yarn cost for 60 Pick: Warp yarn cost + Weft yarn cost + Leno yarn cost

·         Yarn Cost: Yarn Consumption × Yarn price ($ per kg) × Exchange Rate (82.00) /2.2046
·         Yarn Contribution % = Yarn Cost / Grey Fabric Cost × 100%  [75% or less]

3. Sizing Cost: 6.00 Tk. (Constant)

4. Weaving Cost per yard: {(PPI-2) × 0.35} [O.35 =Per pick 0.35 paisa]

5. Markup/ Margin/Profit:  15% of weaving Cost
[Weaving cost = Weaving Variable + weaving Fixed cost] without yarn cost.

6. Grey Fabric Cost: (Yarn Cost + Sizing Cost + Weaving Cost + Mark Up)

7. How to find out per pick cost: [ Total Cost- (Sizing Cost + Yarn Cost)]

8. Total Cost: Yarn Cost + Weaving Cost + Sizing Cost

9. Dyeing cost is always depending on fabric weight:
Less than 6 oz=32 tk
Less than 8 oz=35 tk
More than 8 oz=38 tk
10. Markup/ Margin/Profit: 15% of Dyeing Cost
[Dyeing cost = Dyeing Variable + Dyeing Fixed cost] without Dyes & chemicals cost.

11. Printing Cost:
Up to 4 Color: $ 0.25 Cents = Tk.19.5
Up to 6 Color: $ 0.30 Cents = Tk.23.40
Up to 6 Color + Special chemical: $ 0.40 Cents = Tk.31.20

12. Selling Price /yds:
·         Grey Fabric Price: (Grey Fabric Cost + Markup) / Exchange Rate.
·         Dyeing Charge : (Dyeing Cost + Markup) / Exchange Rate
·         Fabric Cost: Grey Fabric price + Dyeing charge

13. Weaving Cost is Proportionately Distribute in variable cost & Fixed Cost.

14. In the time of doubling, doubling cost is taken as below:
40/2 =30 tk
30/2=20 tk
20/2=15 tk

15. In the time of slub yarn 0.10 Cents is added up to 14 Ne & 0.15 Cent is added above 14 Ne.

16. In Case of Ply Yarn: The Yarn consumption is always depending on the ratio of yarn

If 1:1 –Normal consumption
If 2:1
–warp consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio
--weft consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio

Warp -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Ends Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে,  এবং Weft -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Picks Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে ।

17. In case of Yarn Dyeing:
·         Weaving Cost/kg: 115 taka / (2.2046 x total Consumption)
·         Dyeing Cost: Tk.15

19. Special Finish Cost:
Peach/Micro Sand Peach:       = 0.05 Cents = Tk.4
Both Side Peach:                     = 0.10 Cents = Tk.8
Wrinkle Free:                          = 0.15 Cents = Tk.12
Wicking Finish:                                    = 0.15 Cents = Tk.12
Pre-Cure Finish:                      = 0.25 Cents = Tk.20

20. RFD COST = on average 10 taka less than dyeing cost.

MOQ Issue: MOQ = Minimum Order Quantity
1-1000 yds = 100% upcharge
1001-2000 yds = 60% upcharge
2001-3000 yds = 25% upcharge
3000+ = No up-charge 

Costing Tricks from Tani:
1.      Yarn price = (Spinning mill price + $0.15) [For only Levis]
2.      Yarn Price = Spinning mill price [For other party]
3.      Yarn consumption = 2.5% add to with Format consumption.
4.      R/C calculation:   

5.      R/S = Up to 71.
6.      Pick price depended on Power & Fuel (Utility) charge.
7.      Sizing cost =
Up to 20s = Tk.6.00
Above = Tk.4.00
8.      Print cost:
Up to 4 color = $0.025
Above  = $0.30
Camo = $0.30
Bloch = $0.40
9.      Dyeing cost
10. For Lycra(Solid) = Tk.32 (Including Markup)
11. For non-Lycra(Solid) = Tk.30 (Including Markup)
12. Yarn Dye cost = Tk.12 to Tk.14 (Including Markup)
13. Yarn Dye cost per KG = Tk.115
14. Finish Type & charge:
Peach 1 side = $0.05
Peach both side = $0.10
Mechanical Stitch = $0.10
Water replant (waterproof) finish = $0.25


Some conversion unit-
Centimeter   সেন্টিমিটার
Inch ইঞ্চি
Parameters:
10 mm = 1 cm
100 cm = 1 mtr
100 cm = 39.37" inch
1 cm = 0.3937 inch
1 CM = 0.0328 Foot

1" inch = 2.54 cm
1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM
12 inch = 1 Foot
36 inch = 1 Yard

1 Meter = 39.37 inch
1 Mtr = 100 cm = 1000 mm = 0.001 km
1 Meter = 3.28 Foot
1 Mtr = 1.09361 Yard

1 Yard = 0.9144 meter
1 YD = 36 inch
1 YD = 3 Foot

92 FT = 12 Yard
1 Foot = 0.3048 Meter
1 Foot = 30.48 cm

1 gm. = 0.0353 oz.
1 oz. = 28.350 gm.
1 lb. = 453.6 gm.

1 lb. = 0.4536 kg
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
1" = 8 সুতা =1.0"
সুতা = 1/8 = 0.125"
1.5 সুতা = 3/16"
সুতা =1/4 =  0.25"
2.5 সুতা = 5/16"
সুতা = 3/8 = 0.375"
3.5 সুতা = 7/16"
সুতা =1/2 = 0.5"
4.5 সুতা = 9/16"
সুতা =5/8 = 0.625"
5.5 সুতা = 11/16"
সুতা = 3/4 = 0.75"
6.5 সুতা = 13/16"
সুতা = 7/8 = 0.875
7.5 সুতা = 15/16"
1/16 = হাফ (1/2) সুতা =  0.0625
1/32 = 
পোয়া সুতা = 0.03125


Measurement Tape 60" inch = 150 cm = 1.5 miters



1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2
1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2
1 kg = 2.2046 lb.
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb.
1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg
M=Meter
MM=Mile Meter
Inc=Inch
YD=Yards
FT=Feet
KM=Kilo Meter
CM = Centimeter


1 CBF = 1728 square inches
1 CBM = 10,00,000 square cm


Some Important Conversion Factors:

1 Yard = 0.9144 meter
1 meter = 1.09361 yard
1 meter = 39.37 inch
1 gm. = 0.0353 oz.
1 oz. = 28.350 gm.
1 lb. = 453.6 gm.
1 lb. = 0.4536 kg
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2
1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2
1 kg = 2.2046 lb.
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb.
1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg
ØØ Prove the equation:
è1 Yard = 0.9144 meter ç
We know
1 yard = 36 inch
1 meter = 39.37 inch
Here,
1 yard = 36 ÷ 39.37 = 0.9144 meter (Proved)

è1 meter = 1.09361 yard ç
We know
1 yard = 36 inch
1 meter = 39.37 inch
Here,
1 meter = 39.37 ÷ 36 = 1.09361 yard (Proved)

è1 meter = 39.37 inch ç
è1 gm = 0.0353 oz ç
è1 oz = 28.350 gm ç
è1 lb = 453.6 gm  ç
è1 lb = 0.4536 kg ç
è1 inch = 2.54 cm ç

è1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 ç
We know,
1 meter = 1.09361 yds
Here,
1 m2 = yds. × yds.
= 1.09361 yd × 1.09361 yd
= 1.1960 yds2 (proved)

è1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2 ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
Here,
1 yd2 = meter × meter
= 0.9144 × 0.9144
= 0.8361 m2 (proved)
è1 gm/m2 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 ç
We know,
1 gm = 0.0353 oz
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
Here,
1 gm/m2 = 0.0353 ÷ 1.196 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 (proved)

è1 oz/yd2 = 33.91 gm/m2 ç
We know,
1 oz = 28.35 gram
1 meter = 1.09361 inch
Here,
1 oz/yd2 = 1 oz × meter × meter
   = 28.35 × 1.09361 × 1.09361
   = 33.9061 gm/m2 (proved)

è1 kg = 2.2046 lb  ç
We know,
1 kg = 1000 gram
1 lb = 453.6 gm
Here,
1 kg = 1000 ÷ 453.6 = 2.2046 lbs (proved)

è1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd/lb ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 lb = 0.4536 kg
Here,
1 m/kg = 0.4536 ÷ 0.9144 = 0.4961 yd/lbs (proved)

è1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/kg ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 lb = 0.4536 kg
Here,
1 yd/lb = 0.9144 ÷ 0.4536 = 2.0159 m/kg (proved)




Yarn Count:

Total Ends = EPI × fabric width   or, Reed count × Reed Space
Reed count = EPI - Weft shrinkage %
Reed Space = Total Ends / Reed Count
No. of Beam = 10, 12, 14, 16
No. of Cone = Total Ends / No. of Beam
Cone Length = (No. of Beam × Warp Length) + 800 to 1200
Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) × Declared R.C} = Extra Ends
Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) × R.C/2} × Ends /Dent = Selvedge Dent × yarn per Dent = End / Selvedge
Warp yarn Kg = No. of cone × Cone Length × 1.04 × 0.00059 / Warp count
Weft yarn Kg = Reed Space × Grey PPI × Beam Length × 1.03 × 0.00059 / Weft count






How to calculate woven fabric construction to kg…

If construction 16×12/116×56, Fabric width = 56”, Weight = 8.4 oz/yds2
Fabric length = 2 yds.

Solution:
We know,
woven fabric (in Kg) = Length meter × Width meter × oz./yds2 × 33.91 / 1000

Here,
Length 2 yds. = 72” ÷39.37= 1.8288 meters
Width 56” ÷ 39.37 = 1.4224 meter
Fabric weight = 8.4 oz./yds2

woven fabric (in Kg) = 1.8288 × 1.4224 × 8.4 × 33.91 / 1000
Total Weight (for 2 yds) = 0.740 kg



















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