Costing Related Formula: Date: 3.06.18
Yarn
Consumption for Lycra, non-Lycra & Yarn Dye:
Essential Elements:
1.
Warp count
2.
Weft count
3.
EPI
4.
PPI
5.
Fabric Width
6.
Weight per
yard.
7.
Total Ends=EPI
× Finish Width or (R.C × R.S)
8.
Reed count =
EPI – (EPI × 0.22) [ Lycra]
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9.
Reed count =
EPI – (EPI × 0.12) [non-Lycra]
10. Reed Space = Total Ends ÷ Reed
count
11.
Total Pick = (Reed Space +
3.5) × PPI × Grey yds.
12. Warp crimp%=22% [non-Lycra]
13. Warp crimp%=28% [Lycra]
14. Weft crimp%=7% [non-Lycra]
15. Weft crimp%=14.5%
[Lycra]
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21. Fabric
GSM = oz/yds2 × 33.91
22. Warp
Weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (Warp weight without crimp × Warp crimp %) +
Warp weight without crimp
23. Weft
weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (weft weight without crimp X Weft crimp %) +
Weft weight without crimp
24. Weight for woven fabric (in gm) = Length meter ×
Width meter × oz./yds2 × 33.91 gm/m2
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Formula
for fabric costing (for Yarn Dyeing Weight):
1.
Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857
2.
Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant
according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857
3.
weaving crimp% = {(EPI ÷ 4) + (PPI ÷ 3.46)}
× Twill
structure*
= {(116 ÷4) + (56 ÷ 3.46)} × 0.75
[If, EPI=116 & PPI=56, Twill structure=0.75]
= (29+16.18) × 0.75
= 45 × 0.75 = 33.88-20 =13.88% (3/1
twill)
.
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Formula
for Fabric costing (For Solid Dyeing Weight):
1.
Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant
according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857
2.
Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant
according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857
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1.
Warp
yarn è Warp অর্থাৎ টানা সুতা
। কাপরের মধ্যে লম্বা ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে Warp বা টানা সুতা বলে ।
2.
Weft
yarn è Weft অর্থাৎ পড়েন বা
বাইন সুতা । কাপরের মধ্যে প্রস্থ ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে Weft বা প্রস্থ সুতা
বলে ।
3.
EPI
è Inch per inch è
প্রতি
ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকবে তাকে EPI বলে ।
4.
PPI
è Pick per inch è
প্রতি
ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা থাকবে তাকে PPI বলে ।
5.
Fabric
Width è কাপর যতটুকু প্রসস্ত হবে অর্থাৎ কাপরের
যতটুকু প্রস্থ হবে তাকে Fabric
Width বলে
।
6.
Weight
per yard è এক গজ কাপরের ওজন কতটুকু হবে তা oz/yds2 বা GSM দ্বারা প্রকাশ
করা হয় ।
7.
Total
Ends è একটি কাপরে মোট যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকে তাকে
Total
Ends বলে
।
8.
Reed
è Reed হলো চিরুনীর মত দাঁত (Dent), যার ভিতর দিয়ে
Size
Beam
এর সুতা ঢুকিয়ে Loom মেশিনে সেট করা হয় ।
9.
Reed
Count è Reed এর প্রতি 2” ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো Dent থাকে তাকে Reed Count বলে ।
10.
Reed
Space è Total Ends, Reed এর মধ্যে যতটুকু
যায়গা দখল করে তাকে Reed space বলে।
11.
Total
Pick è Required fabric তৈরি করতে যতগুলো
Pick লাগবে তার সমষ্টিকেই Total Picks বলে ।
12.
Warp
crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে টানা সুতা যে হরে
সংকুচিত হয় তাকে Warp crimp% বলে ।
13.
Weft
crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা
যে হরে সংকুচিত হয় তাকে Weft crimp% বলে ।
14.
Warp
Constant è
15.
Weft
Constant è
Step
– 1:
Warp yarn weight (in lbs) per yard: ( EPI X F.W /840X W.C) + Crimp% (28%) or, |
Step
– 2:
Weft yarn weight (in Lbs) per yd: {(R.S+3.5) × Grey PPI}/840 X Weft count)+ Crimp%(14.5%) or,
Note -
In teams of Lycra ----weft crimp%
is always high depending on Reed count.
Reed count= linear density/ 2 inch
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Costing Formula:
1. Total
Yarn Consumption: (For S/D &
Y/D)
:
(Warp Consumption + weft Consumption) + Leno (0.0002)
2. Find out yarn cost per yard fabric in Taka:
·
Warp Yarn cost =warp yarn consumption x warp yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·
Weft Yarn cost = weft yarn
consumption x weft yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·
Leno yarn cost = 0.0002 x Leno
yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046
·
Total Yarn cost for 60 Pick: Warp yarn cost + Weft yarn cost + Leno yarn cost
·
Yarn Cost: Yarn Consumption × Yarn price ($ per kg) × Exchange Rate (82.00)
/2.2046
·
Yarn Contribution % = Yarn Cost / Grey
Fabric Cost × 100% [75% or less]
3. Sizing Cost: 6.00
Tk. (Constant)
4. Weaving
Cost per yard: {(PPI-2) × 0.35} → [O.35 =Per pick 0.35 paisa]
5. Markup/
Margin/Profit: 15% of weaving Cost
[Weaving cost = Weaving Variable + weaving Fixed
cost] without yarn cost.
6. Grey
Fabric Cost: (Yarn Cost +
Sizing Cost + Weaving Cost + Mark Up)
7. How
to find out per pick cost: [ Total Cost-
(Sizing Cost + Yarn Cost)]
8. Total
Cost: Yarn Cost +
Weaving Cost + Sizing Cost
9. Dyeing
cost is always depending on fabric weight:
Less than 6 oz=32
tk
Less than 8 oz=35
tk
More than 8 oz=38
tk
10. Markup/
Margin/Profit: 15% of Dyeing Cost
[Dyeing cost = Dyeing Variable + Dyeing Fixed
cost] without Dyes & chemicals cost.
11. Printing Cost:
Up to 4 Color: $
0.25 Cents = Tk.19.5
Up to 6 Color: $
0.30 Cents = Tk.23.40
Up to 6 Color +
Special chemical: $ 0.40 Cents = Tk.31.20
12. Selling Price /yds:
·
Grey Fabric Price: (Grey
Fabric Cost + Markup) / Exchange Rate.
·
Dyeing Charge : (Dyeing Cost +
Markup) / Exchange Rate
·
Fabric Cost: Grey Fabric price
+ Dyeing charge
13. Weaving Cost is Proportionately
Distribute in variable cost & Fixed Cost.
14. In the time of doubling, doubling
cost is taken as below:
40/2 =30 tk
30/2=20 tk
20/2=15 tk
15. In the time of slub yarn 0.10 Cents is added up to 14 Ne & 0.15
Cent is added above 14 Ne.
16.
In Case of Ply Yarn: The Yarn
consumption is always depending on the ratio of yarn
If 1:1 –Normal consumption
If 2:1
–warp consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio
--weft consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio
Warp -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Ends Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে, এবং Weft -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Picks Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে ।
17.
In case of Yarn Dyeing:
·
Weaving Cost/kg: 115 taka /
(2.2046 x total Consumption)
·
Dyeing Cost: Tk.15
19.
Special Finish Cost:
Peach/Micro
Sand Peach: = 0.05 Cents = Tk.4
Both
Side Peach: = 0.10
Cents = Tk.8
Wrinkle Free: =
0.15 Cents = Tk.12
Wicking Finish: = 0.15 Cents = Tk.12
Pre-Cure Finish: =
0.25 Cents = Tk.20
20.
RFD COST = on average 10 taka less than dyeing cost.
MOQ
Issue: MOQ = Minimum
Order Quantity
1-1000 yds = 100% upcharge
1001-2000 yds = 60% upcharge
2001-3000 yds = 25% upcharge
3000+ = No up-charge
Costing Tricks from Tani:
1.
Yarn price =
(Spinning mill price + $0.15) [For only Levis]
2.
Yarn Price =
Spinning mill price [For other party]
3.
Yarn consumption
= 2.5% add to with Format consumption.
4.
R/C
calculation:
5.
R/S = Up to 71.
6.
Pick price
depended on Power & Fuel (Utility) charge.
7.
Sizing cost =
Up to 20s = Tk.6.00
Above = Tk.4.00
8.
Print cost:
Up to 4 color = $0.025
Above = $0.30
Camo = $0.30
Bloch = $0.40
9.
Dyeing cost
10. For Lycra(Solid) = Tk.32 (Including Markup)
11. For non-Lycra(Solid) = Tk.30 (Including Markup)
12. Yarn Dye cost = Tk.12 to Tk.14 (Including Markup)
13. Yarn Dye cost per KG = Tk.115
14. Finish Type & charge:
Peach 1 side = $0.05
Peach both side = $0.10
Mechanical Stitch = $0.10
Water replant (waterproof) finish = $0.25
Some conversion unit-
Centimeter সেন্টিমিটার
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Inch ইঞ্চি
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Parameters:
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10 mm = 1 cm
100 cm = 1 mtr
100 cm = 39.37" inch
1 cm = 0.3937 inch
1 CM = 0.0328 Foot
1" inch = 2.54 cm
1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM
12 inch = 1 Foot
36 inch = 1 Yard
1 Meter = 39.37 inch
1 Mtr = 100 cm = 1000 mm = 0.001 km
1 Meter = 3.28 Foot
1 Mtr = 1.09361 Yard
1 Yard = 0.9144 meter
1 YD = 36 inch
1 YD = 3 Foot
92 FT = 12 Yard
1 Foot = 0.3048 Meter
1 Foot = 30.48 cm
1 gm. = 0.0353 oz.
1 oz. = 28.350 gm.
1 lb. = 453.6 gm.
1 lb. = 0.4536 kg
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
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1" = 8 সুতা =1.0"
1 সুতা = 1/8 = 0.125" 1.5 সুতা = 3/16" 2 সুতা =1/4 = 0.25" 2.5 সুতা = 5/16" 3 সুতা = 3/8 = 0.375" 3.5 সুতা = 7/16" 4 সুতা =1/2 = 0.5" 4.5 সুতা = 9/16" 5 সুতা =5/8 = 0.625" 5.5 সুতা = 11/16" 6 সুতা = 3/4 = 0.75" 6.5 সুতা = 13/16" 7 সুতা = 7/8 = 0.875 7.5 সুতা = 15/16" 1/16 = হাফ (1/2) সুতা = 0.0625 1/32 = পোয়া সুতা = 0.03125 Measurement Tape 60" inch = 150 cm = 1.5 miters
1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2
1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2
1 kg = 2.2046 lb.
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb.
1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg |
M=Meter
MM=Mile Meter
Inc=Inch
YD=Yards
FT=Feet
KM=Kilo Meter
CM = Centimeter
1 CBF = 1728 square inches
1 CBM = 10,00,000 square cm
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Some Important Conversion Factors:
1 Yard = 0.9144 meter
1 meter = 1.09361 yard
1 meter = 39.37 inch
1 gm. = 0.0353 oz.
1 oz. = 28.350 gm.
1 lb. = 453.6 gm.
1 lb. = 0.4536 kg
1 inch = 2.54 cm
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1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2
1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2
1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2
1 kg = 2.2046 lb.
1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb.
1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg
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ØØ Prove the equation:
è1 Yard = 0.9144 meter ç
We know
1 yard = 36 inch
1 meter = 39.37 inch
Here,
1 yard = 36 ÷ 39.37 = 0.9144 meter (Proved)
è1 meter = 1.09361 yard ç
We know
1 yard = 36 inch
1 meter = 39.37 inch
Here,
1 meter = 39.37 ÷ 36 = 1.09361 yard (Proved)
è1 meter = 39.37 inch ç
è1 gm = 0.0353 oz ç
è1 oz = 28.350 gm ç
è1 lb = 453.6 gm ç
è1 lb = 0.4536 kg ç
è1 inch = 2.54 cm ç
è1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 ç
We know,
1 meter = 1.09361 yds
Here,
1 m2 = yds. × yds.
= 1.09361 yd × 1.09361 yd
= 1.1960 yds2 (proved)
è1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2 ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
Here,
1 yd2 = meter × meter
= 0.9144 × 0.9144
= 0.8361 m2 (proved)
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è1 gm/m2 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 ç
We know,
1 gm = 0.0353 oz
1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2
Here,
1 gm/m2 = 0.0353 ÷ 1.196 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 (proved)
è1 oz/yd2 = 33.91 gm/m2 ç
We know,
1 oz = 28.35 gram
1 meter = 1.09361 inch
Here,
1 oz/yd2 = 1 oz × meter × meter
= 28.35 × 1.09361 × 1.09361
= 33.9061 gm/m2 (proved)
è1 kg = 2.2046 lb ç
We know,
1 kg = 1000 gram
1 lb = 453.6 gm
Here,
1 kg = 1000 ÷ 453.6 = 2.2046 lbs (proved)
è1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd/lb ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 lb = 0.4536 kg
Here,
1 m/kg = 0.4536 ÷ 0.9144 = 0.4961 yd/lbs (proved)
è1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/kg ç
We know,
1 yard = 0.9144 meter
1 lb = 0.4536 kg
Here,
1 yd/lb = 0.9144 ÷ 0.4536 = 2.0159 m/kg (proved)
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Total Ends = EPI × fabric
width or, Reed count × Reed Space
Reed count = EPI - Weft
shrinkage %
Reed Space = Total Ends /
Reed Count
No. of Beam = 10, 12, 14, 16
No. of Cone = Total Ends /
No. of Beam
Cone Length = (No. of Beam ×
Warp Length) + 800 to 1200
Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) ×
Declared R.C} = Extra Ends
Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) ×
R.C/2} × Ends /Dent = Selvedge Dent × yarn per Dent = End / Selvedge
Warp yarn Kg = No. of cone ×
Cone Length × 1.04 × 0.00059 / Warp count
Weft yarn Kg = Reed Space ×
Grey PPI × Beam Length × 1.03 × 0.00059 / Weft count
☼ How to calculate
woven fabric construction to kg…
If construction 16×12/116×56, Fabric width = 56”, Weight = 8.4 oz/yds2
Fabric length = 2 yds.
Solution:
We know,
woven fabric (in
Kg) = Length meter × Width meter × oz./yds2 × 33.91 / 1000
Here,
Length 2 yds. = 72” ÷39.37= 1.8288 meters
Width 56” ÷ 39.37 = 1.4224 meter
Fabric weight = 8.4 oz./yds2
woven fabric (in
Kg) = 1.8288 × 1.4224 × 8.4 × 33.91 / 1000
Total Weight (for 2
yds) = 0.740 kg