Costing Formula (A to Z) Woven fabric

Costing Related Formula:                Date:  3.06.18

Yarn Consumption for Lycra, non-Lycra & Yarn Dye:

Essential Elements:

1.      Warp count 2.      Weft count 3.      EPI 4.      PPI 5.      Fabric Width 6.      Weight per yard.  7.      Total Ends=EPI × Finish Width or (R.C × R.S) 8.      Reed count = EPI – (EPI × 0.22) [ Lycra]	9.      Reed count = EPI – (EPI × 0.12) [non-Lycra] 10.   Reed Space = Total Ends ÷ Reed count 11.     Total Pick = (Reed Space + 3.5) × PPI × Grey yds. 12.  Warp crimp%=22% [non-Lycra] 13.  Warp crimp%=28% [Lycra] 14.  Weft crimp%=7% [non-Lycra]  15.  Weft crimp%=14.5% [Lycra]
21.  Fabric GSM = oz/yds2 × 33.91 22.  Warp Weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (Warp weight without crimp × Warp crimp %) + Warp weight without crimp 23.  Weft weight (Bounds/Linear yard) = (weft weight without crimp X Weft crimp %) + Weft weight without crimp 24.   Weight for woven fabric (in gm) = Length meter × Width meter × oz./yds2 × 33.91  gm/m2
Formula for fabric costing (for Yarn Dyeing Weight): 1.      Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857 2.      Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857   3.      weaving crimp% = {(EPI ÷ 4) + (PPI ÷ 3.46)} × Twill structure*        = {(116 ÷4) + (56 ÷ 3.46)} × 0.75   [If, EPI=116 & PPI=56, Twill structure=0.75]        = (29+16.18) × 0.75        = 45 × 0.75 = 33.88-20 =13.88% (3/1 twill) 2/2 twill = 1.00 2/1 twill = 0.85 4/1 twill = 0.80  3/1 twill = 0.75 .
Formula for Fabric costing (For Solid Dyeing Weight): 1.      Weft Constant= 0.6857 × constant according to 3/1 twill structure*+ 0.6857 2.      Warp Constant= 0.6857 × Constant according to 2/1 Twill structure*+ 0.6857

1.    Warp yarn è Warp অর্থাৎ টানা সুতা । কাপরের মধ্যে লম্বা ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে  Warp বা টানা সুতা বলে ।

2.    Weft yarn è Weft অর্থাৎ পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা । কাপরের মধ্যে প্রস্থ ভাবে যে সুতা থাকে তাকে Weft বা প্রস্থ সুতা বলে ।

3.    EPI è Inch per inch è প্রতি ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকবে তাকে EPI বলে ।

4.    PPI è Pick per inch è প্রতি ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা থাকবে তাকে PPI বলে ।

5.    Fabric Width è কাপর যতটুকু প্রসস্ত হবে অর্থাৎ কাপরের যতটুকু প্রস্থ হবে তাকে Fabric Width বলে ।

6.    Weight per yard è এক গজ কাপরের ওজন কতটুকু হবে তা oz/yds² বা GSM দ্বারা প্রকাশ করা হয় ।

7.    Total Ends è একটি কাপরে মোট যতগুলো টানা সুতা থাকে তাকে Total Ends বলে ।

8.    Reed è Reed হলো চিরুনীর মত দাঁত (Dent), যার ভিতর দিয়ে Size Beam এর সুতা ঢুকিয়ে Loom মেশিনে সেট করা হয় ।

9.    Reed Count è Reed এর প্রতি  2” ইঞ্চিতে যতগুলো Dent থাকে তাকে  Reed Count বলে ।

10. Reed Space è Total Ends, Reed এর মধ্যে যতটুকু যায়গা দখল করে তাকে Reed space বলে।

11. Total Pick è Required fabric তৈরি করতে যতগুলো Pick লাগবে তার সমষ্টিকেই Total Picks বলে ।

12. Warp crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে টানা সুতা যে হরে সংকুচিত হয় তাকে  Warp crimp% বলে ।

13. Weft crimp% è কাপর তৈরির ফলে পড়েন বা বাইন সুতা যে হরে সংকুচিত হয় তাকে  Weft crimp% বলে ।

14. Warp Constant è

15. Weft Constant è

Step – 1:  Warp yarn weight (in lbs) per yard: ( EPI X F.W /840X W.C) + Crimp% (28%)  or,

Step – 2: Weft yarn weight (in Lbs) per yd: {(R.S+3.5) × Grey PPI}/840 X Weft count)+ Crimp%(14.5%) or, Note - In teams of Lycra ----weft crimp% is always high depending on Reed count.                          Reed count= linear density/ 2 inch

Costing Formula:

1. Total Yarn Consumption: (For S/D & Y/D)

: (Warp Consumption + weft Consumption) + Leno (0.0002)

2. Find out yarn cost per yard fabric in Taka:

·         Warp Yarn cost =warp yarn consumption x warp yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046

·         Weft Yarn cost = weft yarn consumption x weft yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046

·         Leno yarn cost = 0.0002 x Leno yarn price $ per kg × Exchange Rate/2.2046

·         Total Yarn cost for 60 Pick: Warp yarn cost + Weft yarn cost + Leno yarn cost

·         Yarn Cost: Yarn Consumption × Yarn price ($ per kg) × Exchange Rate (82.00) /2.2046

·         Yarn Contribution % = Yarn Cost / Grey Fabric Cost × 100%  [75% or less]

3. Sizing Cost: 6.00 Tk. (Constant)

4. Weaving Cost per yard: {(PPI-2) × 0.35} → [O.35 =Per pick 0.35 paisa]

5. Markup/ Margin/Profit:  15% of weaving Cost

[Weaving cost = Weaving Variable + weaving Fixed cost] without yarn cost.

6. Grey Fabric Cost: (Yarn Cost + Sizing Cost + Weaving Cost + Mark Up)

7. How to find out per pick cost: [ Total Cost- (Sizing Cost + Yarn Cost)]

8. Total Cost: Yarn Cost + Weaving Cost + Sizing Cost

9. Dyeing cost is always depending on fabric weight:

Less than 6 oz=32 tk

Less than 8 oz=35 tk

More than 8 oz=38 tk

10. Markup/ Margin/Profit: 15% of Dyeing Cost

[Dyeing cost = Dyeing Variable + Dyeing Fixed cost] without Dyes & chemicals cost.

11. Printing Cost:

Up to 4 Color: $ 0.25 Cents = Tk.19.5

Up to 6 Color: $ 0.30 Cents = Tk.23.40

Up to 6 Color + Special chemical: $ 0.40 Cents = Tk.31.20

12. Selling Price /yds:

·         Grey Fabric Price: (Grey Fabric Cost + Markup) / Exchange Rate.

·         Dyeing Charge : (Dyeing Cost + Markup) / Exchange Rate

·         Fabric Cost: Grey Fabric price + Dyeing charge

13. Weaving Cost is Proportionately Distribute in variable cost & Fixed Cost.

14. In the time of doubling, doubling cost is taken as below:

40/2 =30 tk

30/2=20 tk

20/2=15 tk

15. In the time of slub yarn 0.10 Cents is added up to 14 Ne & 0.15 Cent is added above 14 Ne.

16. In Case of Ply Yarn: The Yarn consumption is always depending on the ratio of yarn

If 1:1 –Normal consumption

If 2:1

–warp consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio

--weft consumption x warp yarn ratio /total ratio

Warp -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Ends Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে,  এবং Weft -এ একাধিক Count এর সুতা ব্যবহার হলে তাদের Picks Ratio অনুযায়ী Yarn Consumption করতে হবে ।

17. In case of Yarn Dyeing:

·         Weaving Cost/kg: 115 taka / (2.2046 x total Consumption)

·         Dyeing Cost: Tk.15

19. Special Finish Cost:

Peach/Micro Sand Peach:       = 0.05 Cents = Tk.4

Both Side Peach:                     = 0.10 Cents = Tk.8

Wrinkle Free:                          = 0.15 Cents = Tk.12

Wicking Finish:                                    = 0.15 Cents = Tk.12

Pre-Cure Finish:                      = 0.25 Cents = Tk.20

20. RFD COST = on average 10 taka less than dyeing cost.

MOQ Issue: MOQ = Minimum Order Quantity

1-1000 yds = 100% upcharge

1001-2000 yds = 60% upcharge

2001-3000 yds = 25% upcharge

3000+ = No up-charge 

Costing Tricks from Tani:

1.      Yarn price = (Spinning mill price + $0.15) [For only Levis]

2.      Yarn Price = Spinning mill price [For other party]

3.      Yarn consumption = 2.5% add to with Format consumption.

4.      R/C calculation:   

5.      R/S = Up to 71.

6.      Pick price depended on Power & Fuel (Utility) charge.

7.      Sizing cost =

Up to 20s = Tk.6.00

Above = Tk.4.00

8.      Print cost:

Up to 4 color = $0.025

Above  = $0.30

Camo = $0.30

Bloch = $0.40

9.      Dyeing cost

10. For Lycra(Solid) = Tk.32 (Including Markup)

11. For non-Lycra(Solid) = Tk.30 (Including Markup)

12. Yarn Dye cost = Tk.12 to Tk.14 (Including Markup)

13. Yarn Dye cost per KG = Tk.115

14. Finish Type & charge:

Peach 1 side = $0.05

Peach both side = $0.10

Mechanical Stitch = $0.10

Water replant (waterproof) finish = $0.25

Some conversion unit-

Centimeter   সেন্টিমিটার	Inch ইঞ্চি	Parameters:
10 mm = 1 cm 100 cm = 1 mtr 100 cm = 39.37" inch 1 cm = 0.3937 inch 1 CM = 0.0328 Foot 1" inch = 2.54 cm 1 Square Inch = 6.45 Square CM 12 inch = 1 Foot 36 inch = 1 Yard 1 Meter = 39.37 inch 1 Mtr = 100 cm = 1000 mm = 0.001 km 1 Meter = 3.28 Foot 1 Mtr = 1.09361 Yard 1 Yard = 0.9144 meter 1 YD = 36 inch 1 YD = 3 Foot 92 FT = 12 Yard 1 Foot = 0.3048 Meter 1 Foot = 30.48 cm 1 gm. = 0.0353 oz. 1 oz. = 28.350 gm. 1 lb. = 453.6 gm. 1 lb. = 0.4536 kg 1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2	1" = 8 সুতা =1.0" 1 সুতা = 1/8 = 0.125" 1.5 সুতা = 3/16" 2 সুতা =1/4 =  0.25" 2.5 সুতা = 5/16" 3 সুতা = 3/8 = 0.375" 3.5 সুতা = 7/16" 4 সুতা =1/2 = 0.5" 4.5 সুতা = 9/16" 5 সুতা =5/8 = 0.625" 5.5 সুতা = 11/16" 6 সুতা = 3/4 = 0.75" 6.5 সুতা = 13/16" 7 সুতা = 7/8 = 0.875 7.5 সুতা = 15/16" 1/16 = হাফ (1/2) সুতা =  0.0625 1/32 = পোয়া সুতা = 0.03125 Measurement Tape 60" inch = 150 cm = 1.5 miters 1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2 1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2 1 kg = 2.2046 lb. 1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb. 1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg	M=Meter MM=Mile Meter Inc=Inch YD=Yards FT=Feet KM=Kilo Meter CM = Centimeter 1 CBF = 1728 square inches 1 CBM = 10,00,000 square cm

Some Important Conversion Factors:

1 Yard = 0.9144 meter 1 meter = 1.09361 yard 1 meter = 39.37 inch 1 gm. = 0.0353 oz. 1 oz. = 28.350 gm. 1 lb. = 453.6 gm. 1 lb. = 0.4536 kg 1 inch = 2.54 cm

1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2 1 gm./m2 = 0.0295 oz./yd2 1 oz./yd2 = 33.91 gm./m2 1 kg = 2.2046 lb. 1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd./lb. 1 yd./lb. = 2.0159 m/kg

ØØ Prove the equation:

è1 Yard = 0.9144 meter ç We know 1 yard = 36 inch 1 meter = 39.37 inch Here, 1 yard = 36 ÷ 39.37 = 0.9144 meter (Proved) è1 meter = 1.09361 yard ç We know 1 yard = 36 inch 1 meter = 39.37 inch Here, 1 meter = 39.37 ÷ 36 = 1.09361 yard (Proved) è1 meter = 39.37 inch ç è1 gm = 0.0353 oz ç è1 oz = 28.350 gm ç è1 lb = 453.6 gm  ç è1 lb = 0.4536 kg ç è1 inch = 2.54 cm ç è1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 ç We know, 1 meter = 1.09361 yds Here, 1 m2 = yds. × yds. = 1.09361 yd × 1.09361 yd = 1.1960 yds2 (proved) è1 yd2 = 0.8361 m2 ç We know, 1 yard = 0.9144 meter Here, 1 yd2 = meter × meter = 0.9144 × 0.9144 = 0.8361 m2 (proved)

è1 gm/m2 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 ç We know, 1 gm = 0.0353 oz 1 m2 = 1.1960 yd2 Here, 1 gm/m2 = 0.0353 ÷ 1.196 = 0.0295 oz/yd2 (proved) è1 oz/yd2 = 33.91 gm/m2 ç We know, 1 oz = 28.35 gram 1 meter = 1.09361 inch Here, 1 oz/yd2 = 1 oz × meter × meter    = 28.35 × 1.09361 × 1.09361    = 33.9061 gm/m2 (proved) è1 kg = 2.2046 lb  ç We know, 1 kg = 1000 gram 1 lb = 453.6 gm Here, 1 kg = 1000 ÷ 453.6 = 2.2046 lbs (proved) è1 m/kg = 0.4961 yd/lb ç We know, 1 yard = 0.9144 meter 1 lb = 0.4536 kg Here, 1 m/kg = 0.4536 ÷ 0.9144 = 0.4961 yd/lbs (proved) è1 yd/lb = 2.0159 m/kg ç We know, 1 yard = 0.9144 meter 1 lb = 0.4536 kg Here, 1 yd/lb = 0.9144 ÷ 0.4536 = 2.0159 m/kg (proved)

Yarn Count:

Total Ends = EPI × fabric width   or, Reed count × Reed Space

Reed count = EPI - Weft shrinkage %

Reed Space = Total Ends / Reed Count

No. of Beam = 10, 12, 14, 16

No. of Cone = Total Ends / No. of Beam

Cone Length = (No. of Beam × Warp Length) + 800 to 1200

Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) × Declared R.C} = Extra Ends

Selvedge = {(mm/25.4) × R.C/2} × Ends /Dent = Selvedge Dent × yarn per Dent = End / Selvedge

Warp yarn Kg = No. of cone × Cone Length × 1.04 × 0.00059 / Warp count

Weft yarn Kg = Reed Space × Grey PPI × Beam Length × 1.03 × 0.00059 / Weft count

☼ How to calculate woven fabric construction to kg…

If construction 16×12/116×56, Fabric width = 56”, Weight = 8.4 oz/yds²

Fabric length = 2 yds.

Solution:

We know,

woven fabric (in Kg) = Length meter × Width meter × oz./yds² × 33.91 / 1000

Here,

Length 2 yds. = 72” ÷39.37= 1.8288 meters

Width 56” ÷ 39.37 = 1.4224 meter

Fabric weight = 8.4 oz./yds²

woven fabric (in Kg) = 1.8288 × 1.4224 × 8.4 × 33.91 / 1000

Total Weight (for 2 yds) = 0.740 kg