How to Select Yarn Count for Specific Fabric GSM

Yarn Count: 

Yarn count is very useful to know the condition of yarn. I mean, yarn is thick or thin. So we can define count in the following way, 

The yarn count is a numerical expression which indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn. 

Fabric GSM: 

GSM means Grams per Square Meter. Fabric GSM means weight of one square meter fabric in grams.GSM plays an important role in textile industry. It is widely used in case of knit fabric measurement. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter. 

How do Select the Correct Yarn Count for Your Specific Fabric GSM? 

How to select yarn count for specific fabric GSM is a very common and technical task for textile engineers. By the using following formula you can easily select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are varying for fabric types. 

Single Jersey: 
Say, the require GSM is 160 

Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22 
= (-0.141) X (160) + 50.22 
= -22.58 + 50.22 
= 27.66 

So, to knit 160 gsm single jersey fabric we need yarn count 27.66/s 

Lycra Single Jersey: 
Say, the require GSM is 160 

Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22 + Denier %
= (-0.141) X (160) + 50.22 +  Denier %
= -22.58 + 50.22 + Denier %
= 27.66 + Denier %

Hear,

Denier 140 = 20% এবং Denier 70 = 40% 

So, to knit 160 gsm  single jersey fabric we need yarn count 27.66/s 

Interlock: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56 
= (-0.206) X (220) + 80.56 
= -45.32 + 80.56 
= 35.24 

So, to knit 220 GSM Interlock fabrics we need yarn count 36/s 

Pique: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16 
= (-0.146) X (220) + 57.16 
= -32.12 + 57.16 
= 25.04 

So, to knit 220 GSM Pique fabric we need yarn count 25 /s  

1*1 Rib: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57 
= (-0.123) X (220) + 54.57 
= -27.06 + 54.57 
= 27.51 

So, to knit 220 GSM 1x1 Rib fabrics we need yarn count 28/s 

Double Lacoste: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36 
= (-0.167) X (220) + 64.36 
= -36.74 + 64.36 
= 27.62 

So, to knit 220 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics we need yarn count 28/s 

Lycra 1×1 Rib: 
Let, required fabric GSM is 180 

Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12 
= (-0.119) x 180 + 59.12 
= -21.42 + 59.12 
=37.7 

Lycra 2x2 Rib: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62 
= (-0.108) X (220) + 56.62 
= -23.76 + 56.62 
= 32.86 

So, to knit 220 GSM Lycra 2x2 Rib fabrics we need yarn count 32/s 

All kind of Fabric's Yarn count & GSM Table are below:

S/J without lycra:					S/J with 20 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
110	4320/GSM=YARN COUNT	39.27	40		140	4320/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count	40.11	40
120		36.00	36		150		37.44	40
130		33.23	32		160		35.10	36
140		30.86	30		170		33.04	34
150		28.80	28		180		31.20	32
160		27.00	26		190		29.56	30
170		25.41	24		200		28.08	30
180		24.00	24		210		26.74	28
190		22.74	22		220		25.53	28
200		21.60	20		230		24.42	26
210		20.57	20		240		23.40	26
220		19.64	20		250		22.46	24

Double Jersey without lycra:					Double Jersey with 20 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
150	6000/GSM=YARN COUNT	40.00	40		200	6000/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count	39.00	40
160		37.50	38		210		37.14	38
170		35.29	36		220		35.45	36
180		33.33	34		230		33.91	34
190		31.58	32		240		32.50	34
200		30.00	30		250		31.20	32
210		28.57	30		260		30.00	30
220		27.27	28		270		28.89	30
230		26.09	26		280		27.86	28
240		25.00	25		290		26.90	28
250		24.00	24		300		26.00	26

Pique without lycra:					Pique with lycra 40% :
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
110	5200/GSM=YARN COUNT	47.27	46		200	5200/GSM + Deniar % =YARN COUNT  [Note:Always use half(1/2) Feeder ]	36.40	36
120		43.33	44		210		34.67	36
130		40.00	40		220		33.09	34
140		37.14	38		230		31.65	32
150		34.67	36		240		30.33	30
160		32.50	32		250		29.12	30
170		30.59	30		260		28.00	28
180		28.89	30		270		26.96	28
190		27.37	28		280		26.00	26
200		26.00	26		290		25.10	26
210		24.76	26		300		24.27	24
220		23.64	24		310		23.48	24

Lacost without lycra:					Lacost with 20 D Lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
140	5300/GSM=YARN COUNT	37.86	38		140	5300/GSM +20% Deniar = YARN COUNT	45.43	46
150		35.33	36		150		42.40	44
160		33.13	34		160		39.75	40
170		31.18	32		170		37.41	38
180		29.44	30		180		35.33	36
190		27.89	28		190		33.47	34
200		26.50	28		200		31.80	32
210		25.24	26		210		30.29	30
220		24.09	24		220		28.91	28

Double Lacost without lycra:					20 D Lycra Lacost
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
140	5720/GSM=YARN COUNT	40.86	40.857		In Double Lacost is not possible add Lycra                        ডাবল লাকোষ্ট - এ লেকরা হয় না ।
150		38.13	38.133
160		35.75	35.75
170		33.65	33.647
180		31.78	31.778
190		30.11	30.105
200		28.60	28.6
210		27.24	27.238
220		26.00	26

Interlock without lycra:					Interlock with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
110	7200/GSM=YARN COUNT	65.45	64		180	7200/GSM + 40% Deniar = YARN COUNT	56.00	56
120		60.00	60		190		53.05	54
130		55.38	56		200		50.40	50
140		51.43	50		210		48.00	48
150		48.00	48		220		45.82	46
160		45.00	45		230		43.83	44
170		42.35	42		240		42.00	42
180		40.00	40		250		40.32	40
190		37.89	36		260		38.77	38
200		36.00	36		270		37.33	36
210		34.29	34		280		36.00	36
220		32.73	32		290		34.76	34

Fleece without lycra:					Fleece with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
250	7200 × 2/GSM=YARN COUNT	57.60	58		250	7200 × 2/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count	80.64	80
260		55.38	56		260		77.54	78
270		53.33	54		270		74.67	28
280		51.43	52		280		72.00	28
290		49.66	50		290		69.52	26
300		48.00	48		300		67.20	26
310		46.45	46		310		65.03	24
320		45.00	46		320		63.00	24
330		43.64	44		330		61.09	24
340		42.35	42		340		59.29	22
উপরুক্ত সুত্রের মাধ্যমে প্রাপ্ত সুতার Count তিনটি ভাগে ভাগ করতে হবে (1) Knit.  (2) Truck  (3)  Loop
(1) Knit এবং (2) Truck এর জন্য Same count Yarn ব্যবহার করা যায়, যদি সুত্রের মাধ্যমে প্রাপ্ত সুতার count = 60 হয় ,
তাহলে knit & Truck এর জন্য 34 count এবং Loop জন্য = 60-34 = 26 Count সুতা ব্যবহার করতে হবে ।

1 × 1 RIB without lycra:					1 × 1 RIB with 40 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
140	5400/GSM=YARN COUNT	38.57	36 or 40		200	5400/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count	37.80	38
150		36.00	36		210		36.00	36
160		33.75	34		220		34.36	34
170		31.76	32		230		32.87	34
180		30.00	30		240		31.50	32
190		28.42	28		250		30.24	32
200		27.00	26		260		29.08	30
210		25.71	26		270		28.00	28
220		24.55	24		280		27.00	28
230		23.48	24		290		26.07	26
240		22.50	22		300		25.20	26
250		21.60	22		310		24.39	24

2 × 2 RIB without lycra:					2 × 2 RIB with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
140	6250/GSM=YARN COUNT	44.64	44		200	6250/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count	43.75	44
150		41.67	42		210		41.67	42
160		39.06	40		220		39.77	40
170		36.76	38		230		38.04	38
180		34.72	36		240		36.46	36
190		32.89	34		250		35.00	36
200		31.25	32		260		33.65	34
210		29.76	30		270		32.41	32
220		28.41	28		280		31.25	32
230		27.17	28		290		30.17	30
240		26.04	26		300		29.17	30
250		25.00	26		310		28.23	28

Terry without lycra:					Terry with lycra:
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
110	6240/GSM=YARN COUNT	56.73	56		110
120		52.00	52		120
130		48.00	48		130
140		44.57	44		140
150		41.60	42		150
160		39.00	40		160
170		36.71	36		170
180		34.67	36		180
190		32.84	34		190
200		31.20	32		200
210		29.71	30		210
220		28.36	28		220

Polyester without lycra:					Polyester with lycra:
Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need		Fabric G.S.M	Formula	Yarn Count	Actual need
110	5315/GSM=YARN COUNT	48.32	48		110
120		44.29	44		120
130		40.88	42		130
140		37.96	36		140
150		35.43	36		150
160		33.22	34		160
170		31.26	32		170
180		29.53	30		180
190		27.97	28		190
200		26.58	26		200
210		25.31	26		210
220		24.16	24		220