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Prime School BD (PSBD24) is popular blog site about technology, merchandising, textile & accounting rules in Bangladesh. Also the post that are publishing about Accounting tutorial, Textile, RMG, Merchandising, Knit Merchandising, Woven Merchandising, Apparel Merchandising, Garments, Dyeing, Spinning, Washing, Buying House, else many things with tips & tricks. বদিউজ্জামান ( রুবেল )
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How to Select Yarn Count for Specific Fabric GSM

Yarn Count: 
Yarn count is very useful to know the condition of yarn. I mean, yarn is thick or thin. So we can define count in the following way, 

The 
yarn count is a numerical expression which indicates the coarseness or fineness of a yarn. 

Fabric GSM: 
GSM means Grams per Square Meter. Fabric GSM means weight of one square meter fabric in grams.GSM plays an important role in textile industry. It is widely used in case of knit fabric measurement. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter. 


How do Select the Correct Yarn Count for Your Specific Fabric GSM? 
How to select yarn count for specific fabric GSM is a very common and technical task for textile engineers. By the using following formula you can easily select the actual yarn count for knit the fabric. These are varying for fabric types. 

Single Jersey: 
Say, the require GSM is 160 

Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22 
= (-0.141) X (160) + 50.22 
= -22.58 + 50.22 
= 27.66 
So, to knit 160 gsm single jersey fabric we need yarn count 27.66/s 

Lycra Single Jersey: 
Say, the require GSM is 160 

Yarn count = (-0.141) X (GSM) + 50.22 + Denier %
= (-0.141) X (160) + 50.22 +  Denier %
= -22.58 + 50.22 + Denier %
= 27.66 
+ Denier %

Hear,
Denier 140 = 20% এবং Denier 70 = 40% 

So, to knit 160 gsm  single jersey fabric we need yarn count 27.66/s 


Interlock: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.206) X (GSM) + 80.56 
= (-0.206) X (220) + 80.56 
= -45.32 + 80.56 
= 35.24 
So, to knit 220 GSM Interlock fabrics we need yarn count 36/s 


Pique: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.146) X (GSM) + 57.16 
= (-0.146) X (220) + 57.16 
= -32.12 + 57.16 
= 25.04 
So, to knit 220 GSM Pique fabric we need yarn count 25 /s  

1*1 Rib: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.123) X (GSM) + 54.57 
= (-0.123) X (220) + 54.57 
= -27.06 + 54.57 
= 27.51 

So, to knit 220 GSM 1x1 Rib fabrics we need yarn count 28/s 

Double Lacoste: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.167) X (GSM) + 64.36 
= (-0.167) X (220) + 64.36 
= -36.74 + 64.36 
= 27.62 

So, to knit 220 GSM Double Lacoste fabrics we need yarn count 28/s 

Lycra 1×1 Rib: 
Let, required fabric GSM is 180 

Yarn Count = (-0.119) GSM + 59.12 
= (-0.119) x 180 + 59.12 
= -21.42 + 59.12 
=37.7 

Lycra 2x2 Rib: 
Say, the require GSM is 220 

Yarn count = (-0.108) X (GSM) + 56.62 
= (-0.108) X (220) + 56.62 
= -23.76 + 56.62 
= 32.86 

So, to knit 220 GSM Lycra 2x2 Rib fabrics we need yarn count 32/s 




All kind of Fabric's Yarn count & GSM Table are below:


S/J without lycra:
S/J with 20 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
110
4320/GSM=YARN COUNT
39.27
40
140
4320/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count
40.11
40
120
36.00
36
150
37.44
40
130
33.23
32
160
35.10
36
140
30.86
30
170
33.04
34
150
28.80
28
180
31.20
32
160
27.00
26
190
29.56
30
170
25.41
24
200
28.08
30
180
24.00
24
210
26.74
28
190
22.74
22
220
25.53
28
200
21.60
20
230
24.42
26
210
20.57
20
240
23.40
26
220
19.64
20
250
22.46
24


Double Jersey without lycra:
Double Jersey with 20 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
150
6000/GSM=YARN COUNT
40.00
40
200
6000/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count
39.00
40
160
37.50
38
210
37.14
38
170
35.29
36
220
35.45
36
180
33.33
34
230
33.91
34
190
31.58
32
240
32.50
34
200
30.00
30
250
31.20
32
210
28.57
30
260
30.00
30
220
27.27
28
270
28.89
30
230
26.09
26
280
27.86
28
240
25.00
25
290
26.90
28
250
24.00
24
300
26.00
26


Pique without lycra:
Pique with lycra 40% :
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
110
5200/GSM=YARN COUNT
47.27
46
200
5200/GSM + Deniar % =YARN COUNT  [Note:Always use half(1/2) Feeder ]
36.40
36
120
43.33
44
210
34.67
36
130
40.00
40
220
33.09
34
140
37.14
38
230
31.65
32
150
34.67
36
240
30.33
30
160
32.50
32
250
29.12
30
170
30.59
30
260
28.00
28
180
28.89
30
270
26.96
28
190
27.37
28
280
26.00
26
200
26.00
26
290
25.10
26
210
24.76
26
300
24.27
24
220
23.64
24
310
23.48
24


Lacost without lycra:
Lacost with 20 D Lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
140
5300/GSM=YARN COUNT
37.86
38
140
5300/GSM +20% Deniar = YARN COUNT
45.43
46
150
35.33
36
150
42.40
44
160
33.13
34
160
39.75
40
170
31.18
32
170
37.41
38
180
29.44
30
180
35.33
36
190
27.89
28
190
33.47
34
200
26.50
28
200
31.80
32
210
25.24
26
210
30.29
30
220
24.09
24
220
28.91
28


Double Lacost without lycra:
20 D Lycra Lacost
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
140
5720/GSM=YARN COUNT
40.86
40.857
In Double Lacost is not possible add Lycra                        ডাবল লাকোষ্ট - লেকরা হয় না
150
38.13
38.133
160
35.75
35.75
170
33.65
33.647
180
31.78
31.778
190
30.11
30.105
200
28.60
28.6
210
27.24
27.238
220
26.00
26


Interlock without lycra:
Interlock with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
110
7200/GSM=YARN COUNT
65.45
64
180
7200/GSM + 40% Deniar = YARN COUNT
56.00
56
120
60.00
60
190
53.05
54
130
55.38
56
200
50.40
50
140
51.43
50
210
48.00
48
150
48.00
48
220
45.82
46
160
45.00
45
230
43.83
44
170
42.35
42
240
42.00
42
180
40.00
40
250
40.32
40
190
37.89
36
260
38.77
38
200
36.00
36
270
37.33
36
210
34.29
34
280
36.00
36
220
32.73
32
290
34.76
34



Fleece without lycra:
Fleece with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
250
7200 × 2/GSM=YARN COUNT
57.60
58
250
7200 × 2/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count
80.64
80
260
55.38
56
260
77.54
78
270
53.33
54
270
74.67
28
280
51.43
52
280
72.00
28
290
49.66
50
290
69.52
26
300
48.00
48
300
67.20
26
310
46.45
46
310
65.03
24
320
45.00
46
320
63.00
24
330
43.64
44
330
61.09
24
340
42.35
42
340
59.29
22
উপরুক্ত সুত্রের মাধ্যমে প্রাপ্ত সুতার Count তিনটি ভাগে ভাগ করতে হবে (1) Knit.  (2) Truck  (3)  Loop
(1) Knit এবং (2) Truck এর জন্য Same count Yarn ব্যবহার করা যায়, যদি সুত্রের মাধ্যমে প্রাপ্ত সুতার count = 60 হয় ,
তাহলে knit & Truck এর জন্য 34 count এবং Loop জন্য = 60-34 = 26 Count সুতা ব্যবহার করতে হবে


1 × 1 RIB without lycra:
1 × 1 RIB with 40 D lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
140
5400/GSM=YARN COUNT
38.57
36 or 40
200
5400/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count
37.80
38
150
36.00
36
210
36.00
36
160
33.75
34
220
34.36
34
170
31.76
32
230
32.87
34
180
30.00
30
240
31.50
32
190
28.42
28
250
30.24
32
200
27.00
26
260
29.08
30
210
25.71
26
270
28.00
28
220
24.55
24
280
27.00
28
230
23.48
24
290
26.07
26
240
22.50
22
300
25.20
26
250
21.60
22
310
24.39
24


2 × 2 RIB without lycra:
2 × 2 RIB with (40 Deniar) lycra
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
140
6250/GSM=YARN COUNT
44.64
44
200
6250/GSM   +  Lycra Deniar  % = Yarn Count
43.75
44
150
41.67
42
210
41.67
42
160
39.06
40
220
39.77
40
170
36.76
38
230
38.04
38
180
34.72
36
240
36.46
36
190
32.89
34
250
35.00
36
200
31.25
32
260
33.65
34
210
29.76
30
270
32.41
32
220
28.41
28
280
31.25
32
230
27.17
28
290
30.17
30
240
26.04
26
300
29.17
30
250
25.00
26
310
28.23
28


Terry without lycra:
Terry with lycra:
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
110
6240/GSM=YARN COUNT
56.73
56
110
120
52.00
52
120
130
48.00
48
130
140
44.57
44
140
150
41.60
42
150
160
39.00
40
160
170
36.71
36
170
180
34.67
36
180
190
32.84
34
190
200
31.20
32
200
210
29.71
30
210
220
28.36
28
220


Polyester without lycra:
Polyester with lycra:
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
Fabric G.S.M
Formula
Yarn Count
Actual need
110
5315/GSM=YARN COUNT
48.32
48
110
120
44.29
44
120
130
40.88
42
130
140
37.96
36
140
150
35.43
36
150
160
33.22
34
160
170
31.26
32
170
180
29.53
30
180
190
27.97
28
190
200
26.58
26
200
210
25.31
26
210
220
24.16
24
220




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