Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends Fabric
Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends Goods
(One bath one stage dyeing with disperse/ direct dyes at atmospheric pressure)
(One bath one stage dyeing with disperse/ direct dyes at atmospheric pressure)
In this method the PC or CVC goods can be dyed at one single bath with disperse and selected direct dyes (stable in high temperature and compatible with polyester dyeing)- disperse for polyester and direct for cotton. Some direct dyes , for example , C.I. Direct Black 22 – the pH may be adjusted to 8-9 with soda ash.
Typical Recipe for Dying of Polyester/Cotton Blends
Dispersing agent................................... = 0.5 – 1.0
g/l
Sequestering agent................................ = 1.0 – 2.0 g/l
Levelling agent...................................... = 1.0-2.0 g/l
Carrier .................................................= 1.0-3.0
Disperse dyes........................................= X%
Selected direct dyes.............................. =Y%
Acetic acid (50%) .................................= 0.5-2 g/l
Glauber salt ...........................................= 5.0 – 20.0 g/l
Temperature.......................................... = 90- 100
Time .....................................................= 60- 120 mins
M:L ......................................................= 1:10
Dyeing Procedure:
1. Seer the dye bath with substrate at 50 temperature and add dispersing agent, leveler, acetic acid , carrier and other auxiliaries , then urn the dye bath for 5-10 minutes.
2. Add both dyes and raise the temperatur4e to 90- 100 @ 1-2 C/min
3. Add glauber salt and run the bath for one to two bours at the same temperature.
4. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 – 80 over 10-15 minutes.
5. Drip the dye bath and carry on the aftertreatment process.
After Treatment Process:
1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.
2. Treat the fabric with suitable fixing agent for improving the wet fastness properties of dyed goods.
3. Soap wash according to vender recommendation.
4. Rinse twice with hot and cold water and then
5. Neutralize with acetic acid.
Sequestering agent................................ = 1.0 – 2.0 g/l
Levelling agent...................................... = 1.0-2.0 g/l
Carrier .................................................= 1.0-3.0
Disperse dyes........................................= X%
Selected direct dyes.............................. =Y%
Acetic acid (50%) .................................= 0.5-2 g/l
Glauber salt ...........................................= 5.0 – 20.0 g/l
Temperature.......................................... = 90- 100
Time .....................................................= 60- 120 mins
M:L ......................................................= 1:10
Dyeing Procedure:
1. Seer the dye bath with substrate at 50 temperature and add dispersing agent, leveler, acetic acid , carrier and other auxiliaries , then urn the dye bath for 5-10 minutes.
2. Add both dyes and raise the temperatur4e to 90- 100 @ 1-2 C/min
3. Add glauber salt and run the bath for one to two bours at the same temperature.
4. Lower down the bath temperature to 70 – 80 over 10-15 minutes.
5. Drip the dye bath and carry on the aftertreatment process.
After Treatment Process:
1. Rinse twice with hot and cold water.
2. Treat the fabric with suitable fixing agent for improving the wet fastness properties of dyed goods.
3. Soap wash according to vender recommendation.
4. Rinse twice with hot and cold water and then
5. Neutralize with acetic acid.
Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process
Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process
In this process, at first the polyester part is dyeing at high
temperature e.g. 130-135oC. After completing the polyester
part dyeing then cotton part is dyeing by using requires chemicals and
control require temperature.
Flow Chart of CVC Fabric Dyeing Process
The sequence of dyeing process with disperse dyes is as follows (Polyester Part + Cotton part Dyeing) by using one bath dyeing method:
Take water in the machine bath at required level.
↓
Then add Detergent, Sequestering agent, Anti-creasing agent, Dispersing agent. --Circulate the fabric for 5 mins at 50oC.
↓
Add acetic acid and circulate for 5 mins at 50oC.
↓
Add Glauber’s salt and circulate for 5 mins at 50oC.
↓
Check PH of the dye bath.
↓
Add Polyester dye solution by linear dosing and circulate the fabrics for 10 mins at 50oC.
↓
Add Cotton dye solution by linear dosing and circulate the fabrics for 10 mins at 50oC.
↓
Circulate the fabric and raise the temperature at 130oC.
↓
Continuing Circulate the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at a constant temperature at 130oC.
↓
Circulate the fabric and decrease the temperature at 70oC.
↓
Then Check the shade of Polyester Part with approved shade.
↓
Circulate the fabric and raise the temperature at 82oC.
↓
Continuing Circulate the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at a constant temperature at 82oC.
↓
Add Soda ash by Curve dosing and continue circulating the fabric for 30 – 40 mins at 82oC.
↓
Circulate the fabric and decrease the temperature at 70oC.
↓
Then Check the shade of Cotton Part with approved shade.
↓
Rinse and Drain.
↓
Add acetic acid and circulate for 10 mins at 60oC.
↓
Drain.
↓
Add Soaping Chemical and circulate for 10 mins at 95oC.
↓
Drain.
↓
Circulate the fabric for 10 mins at 70oC.
↓
Drain.
↓
Unload.
Lab dip & Dyeing Recipes items (Single and double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric using disperse and reactive dye)
Single and double bath dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabric using disperse and reactive dye
Materials and methods
Materials and methods
Material:
Polyester/cotton blended
fabric was used for the experiments. The details are as below.
Polyester/cotton:
60/40
GSM-
129
GLM-
367.440
TC-
250
Construction-
CVC PERCALE- 45CVCX60CVC/ 176X70-112”
RFD parameters of the fabric
1.
Absorbency: 3 sec
2.
Whiteness: 81.76
3.
Tegawa Rating: 8
4.
pH of fabric: 5.0
Dyes and chemicals
Dyes:
Reactive Dyes:
(Manufactured by Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., India)
Corazol Yellow RFT,
Corafix Rubine GDN, Corazol Navy RFT, Novacron Yellow CRG, Coractive T. blue
H2GP, Novacron Yellow S3R, Novacron Rubby S3B, Novacron Blue CR, Novacron
Yellow CRG, Novacron Yellow GL, Novacron Red C2BL and Novacron Blue CR,
Disperse Dyes:
(Manufactured by Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., India)
Coralene Yellow XF,
Coralene Rubine XF2G, Coralene Blue XF, Coralene Dark Blue XF, Coralene Red XF
and Coralene Yellow BXF,
Chemicals and auxiliary
Sodium hydroxide, Sodium
carbonate, Sodium sulphate (Gluaber’s salt), Sodium hydro Sulphite, Premasol
AMK (Anti-migrating agent), Salson NF (Wetting agent), Dekol FBSN (Non-ionic
soap, BASF) and Acetic acid
Machines and the Laboratory
Instruments
1)
Mathis padder – Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
2)
Rota dyer machine – Manufacture: R.B. Electronics and Engineering Pvt. Ltd.,
India
3)
Mathis Pad steam range - Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
4)
Mathis dryer - Manufacture: Werner Mathis AG, Switzerland
5)
Spectrophotometer – Manufacture: Data color, USA
Methods
Dyeing of polyester/cotton with single bath
In the laboratory, as per
the dyeing recipe, the 100 ml of dye baths were prepared by adding the required
amount of dye solution of disperse and reactive dyes, 2 % anti-migrating agent,
2 g/l wetting agent and acidic acid to adjust pH of 4-5. The fabric samples
dyed was padded through dye bath at room temperature and then dried at 130oC.
After drying the samples were thermo-fixed at temperature of 180-220oC for one
min. Then the reactive dyeing was completed by adding 50 g/l glauber’s salt, 2
g/l caustic, 20 g/l soda ash and 2 g/l resist salt at temperature of 100oC.
Finally samples were soaped with 2 g/l soap and then washed and neutralized.
Dyeing of polyester/cotton with double bath
Here dyeing of polyester
and cotton was carried out in separate bath. As per the dyeing recipe, the 100
ml of dye baths were prepared by adding the required amount of disperse dye
solution, 2 % anti-migrating agent, 2 g/l wetting agent and acidic acid to
adjust pH of 4-5. The fabric samples to be dyed was padded through dye bath at
room temperature and then dried at 130oC. After drying the samples were
thermo-fixed at temperature of 180-220oC for one min. The reduction clearing
was carried out with 2 g/l sodium hydrosulphite and 2 g/l sodium hydroxide at
70oC for 15-20 min. After reduction clearing, the samples were washed and
neutralized. Then the reactive dyeing was carried out. The polyester dyed
samples were padded through required amount of reactive dye, 50 g/l glauber’s
salt, 2 g/l caustic, 20 g/l soda ash and 2 g/l resist salt at room temperature.
After padding samples were covered with plastic paper and kept for fixation in
pot of Rota dyeing machine at 100oC for 30 min. Finally samples were soaped
with 2 g/l soap and then washed and neutralized. The following recipes were
selected for the single and double bath dyeing.
Dyeing recipes:
Dyeing recipes: Recipe
|
Disperse Dye
|
Reactive dye
|
Recipe A
|
Coralene Yellow XF
7.5 g/l
Coralene Rubine XF2G
7.1 g/l
Coralene Blue XF 8.1
g/l
|
Corazol Yellow RFT
13.6 g/l
Corafix Rubine GDN
3.6 g/l
Corazol Navy RFT 3.9
g/l
|
Recipe B
|
Coralene Yellow XF
1.5 g/l
Coralene Red XF 4.5
g/l
Coralene Blue XF 1.7
g/l
|
Novacron Yellow S3R
4.5 g/l
Novacron Rubby S3B
4.3 g/l
Novacron Blue CR 1.5
g/l
|
Recipe C
|
Coralene Yellow XF
0.9 g/l
Coralene Dark blue
XF 1.0 g/l
|
Novacron Yellow CRG
1.6 g/l
Corazol Navy RFT 7.2
g/l
Coractive T. blue
H2GP 1.3 g/l
|
Recipe D
|
Coralene Yellow XF
1.07 g/l
Coralene Yellow BXF
0.6 g/l
Coralene Blue XF 1.0
g/l
|
Novacron Yellow GL
3.9 g/l
Novacron Red C2BL
0.6 g/l
Novacron Blue CR 1.1
g/l
|
Dyeing parameters
Parameters
|
Single bath
|
Double bath
|
Padding
|
Trough
temp- room temp. Mangle pressure- 3 bar
Speed
of mangle- 3 mtr/min
|
Trough
temp- room temp.
Mangle
pressure- 3 bar
Speed
of mangle- 3 mtr/min
|
Drying
and curing
|
Drying
temp- 130oC
Drying
speed- 1 mtr/min
Curing
temp- 220oC
Curing
speed- 0.7 mtr/min
|
Drying
temp- 130oC
Drying
speed- 1 mtr/min
Curing
temp- 220oC
Curing
speed- 0.7 mtr/min
|
Development
of reactive dye in cotton portion
|
Trough
temp- room temp
Mangle
pressure- 2.0 bar
Speed
of machine- 2 mtr/min
Steamer
temp- 101oC-102oC
Dwell
time- 1 min, 30 sec.
|
This
process is not carried out for double bath method
|
Reduction
clearing
|
This
process is not carried out in single bath method
|
Time-
15-20 min
Temp-
70oC
|
Cotton
portion dyeing
|
This
process is not carried out in single bath method
|
Trough
temp- room temp. Mangle pressure- 3 bar
Speed
of mangle- 3 mtr/min
|
Washing
|
Washer
temp-
1st
washer- cold wash,
2nd
washer- hot wash, 95oC,
3rd
washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 5oC,
4th
washer- soaping with 2g/l Dekol FBSN, 5oC,
5th
washer- hot wash, 95oC,
6th
washer- neutralization with 0.5 g/l acidic acid
|
Washer
temp-
1st
washer- cold wash,
2nd
washer- hot wash, 95oC,
3rd
washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 95oC,
4th
washer- soaping with 2 g/l Dekol FBSN, 95oC,
5th
washer- hot wash, 95oC,
6th
washer- neutralization with 0.5 g/l acidic acid
|
Results and
discussion
Polyester-cotton blended fabrics were dyed using single
bath and double bath techniques. After dyeing the dyed samples were evaluated
for fastness properties
Dyeing Process of Viscose Fabric
Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method
100% Viscose
Fabric Dyeing Method
Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric. Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process.
Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric. Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process.
Viscose fabric is not a
common fabric like as cotton. The hand feelings of this fabric are same as silk
& soft.
Viscose yarn is a kind of
yarn which made from cellulose base. Viscose is a type
of man-made fiber but it is not a synthetic fiber like as polyester,
because it is made from natural materials, but it is heavily processed.
Advantages of
Viscose
Fabric which is made from
viscose yarn is that takes dyes very well, so that, we can work with a wide
variety of colors. Viscose fabric is very shiny; also it stays bright and
colorful throughout the life of the products made with it. So, if you want to
work with various kind of bold and colorfast fabric then you can choose
viscose.
Disadvantages
of Viscose fabric
1)
Fabric tearing
possibility is very high during the dyeing process.
2)
If the fabric
remain wet for long times then some spot creates on it’s, which removal process
is very difficult. But in cotton fabric we can do this very easily.
3)
If the fabric
dyed uneven then it is very difficult to remove.
4)
During the
dyeing process if we fail to maintain the temperature & pressure properly
then fabric strength will be reduce.
Fabric 100% Viscose,
S/Jersey Fabric, 160 GSM
Dyeing Process of 100% Viscose Fabric:
Actually viscose dyeing process is almost same as single jersey
cotton spandex fabric. However, please find below the dyeing process.
·
1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in
the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next
process.
·
2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent
which increased the PH of fabric.
·
3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash.
·
4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the
fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we
used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not
require for white color fabric.
·
5th Step: Acid wash (after released color
mixing water)
·
6th Step: Color fixing by fixer.
·
Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) –
·
7th Step: Slitting
·
8th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust.
·
9th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage
of fabric length.
Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test
the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.
However, I always suggest everybody to avoid the
order with viscose fabric. Because dyeing of this is very risky & costly
also.
Hope, it will be helpful for all of you
Process flow chart of BURN OUT PRINT
Details of BURN OUT PRINT
The Burn out chemical (Acid) and working details
as mentioned below:
1.
PC or CVC
fabric.
2.
Paste + Any acid liberating
salt (like Nacl, Na2 so4)
3.
Steaming
4.
Washing (Roubasting wash)
5.
Burnout print complete
Only print technicians will understand the above 5 points.
Please find below the step by step printing process of burn
out print.
1st Step : Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.
2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will be remain same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color.
Hope, above description of burn out print is clear to all.
1st Step : Develop the print design and screen with the buyer provided artwork.
2nd Step: Knit the fabric with the yarn of following composition a) 60% polyester 40% cotton OR b) 40% polyester 60% cotton Or similar like that.
3rd Step: After complete the kitting of fabric send the gray or scouring fabric to printing factory.
4th Step: Perform the print on this fabric. Here, the cotton part will be destroyed by the acid but polyester portion will be remain same.
5th Step: Then we will dye and finished the fabric as per our require color.
Hope, above description of burn out print is clear to all.
Now please find below some important points regarding the Burnout
print-
1. Burnout print is not possible on 100%
cotton fabric. Clothes should be PC or CVC
2. 60% polyester 40% cotton is the best
composition for Burnout print.
3. Process loss is very high. More than
35%
4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.
5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.
6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.
4. Single jersey construction is the best construction for Burnout print.
5. If you need the finished fabric with 120 to 130 GSM then you should knit the fabric with 160 to 170 GSM.
6. Burnout print is not only expensive but also lucrative with nice feelings.
When you will calculate the cost of a burnout
printed dress or clothes, please follow the below details-
1. Please add the burnout print price with fabric price.
2. As the sampling cost is very high so also consider it during the pricing.
3. Add process loss 35%
4. Normally the cost of burnout print is $4.5 to $5.0/kg
Please
find below the costing details of single jersey Burnout fabric.
(This is an example only, price may change any time)
(This is an example only, price may change any time)
1. Yarn per Kg = $ 3.60
2. Fabric Knitting = $ 0.15
3. Scouring = $ 0.80
4. Burn Print = $ 5.00
5. Wash = $ 0.80
6. Dyeing = $ 1.50
———————————
Total = $ 11.85/Kg
Add process loss = 35%
The finish Burn out Fabric cost will be = $
16.00/Kg
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